+t el-cheapos benchracing inside

[NativeJesus]

Yes, c'est le temps d'y songer. Le printemps approche.

J'ai pensé y aller pour le kit intercooler-intake-downpipe-cooling stock de la 760, en y greffant un 13c rebuilt (shaft vraiment tight, presque impressionnant) qui traîne depuis un bout de temps au bout d'un 90+ dans le garage.

Vu que c'est un système d'injection Rex/Regina, j'ai à remplacer le MAP pour un 2-bar. GM en a produit de toutes les sortes, pour les 3800 supercharged entres autres. Au fond en gros j'irais en gros avec cette recette là;

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...4&postcount=56

... mais comme ça risque d'être un setup temporaire et que je feel cheap j'aimerais essayer les injecteurs avec le resistor pack et le FPR du même moteur. C'est l'été, j'ai le Suzuki, le Jeep et le bike, ma blonde est en congé, je peux me permettre de me planter.

Une autre chose que j'aimerais, c'est remplacer la tête pour profiter des valves au sodium de la turbo, slapper le cam K et en profiter pour mettre un Cometics en vue d'ajustements futurs.

J'aimerais mieux tourner la clé et ne rien briser, par contre. C'vous en pensez ?

[Invité]

Yes, c'est le temps d'y songer. Le printemps approche.

J'ai pensé y aller pour le kit intercooler-intake-downpipe-cooling stock de la 760, en y greffant un 13c rebuilt (shaft vraiment tight, presque impressionnant) qui traîne depuis un bout de temps au bout d'un 90+ dans le garage.

Vu que c'est un système d'injection Rex/Regina, j'ai à remplacer le MAP pour un 2-bar. GM en a produit de toutes les sortes, pour les 3800 supercharged entres autres. Au fond en gros j'irais en gros avec cette recette là;

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...4&postcount=56

... mais comme ça risque d'être un setup temporaire et que je feel cheap j'aimerais essayer les injecteurs avec le resistor pack et le FPR du même moteur. C'est l'été, j'ai le Suzuki, le Jeep et le bike, ma blonde est en congé, je peux me permettre de me planter.

Une autre chose que j'aimerais, c'est remplacer la tête pour profiter des valves au sodium de la turbo, slapper le cam K et en profiter pour mettre un Cometics en vue d'ajustements futurs.

J'aimerais mieux tourner la clé et ne rien briser, par contre. C'vous en pensez ?

Whoooooohooooooo!!!!

Je te suggere si tu veux rester dans le "cheap" (money wise) de te diriger vers les injecteurs de 850 qui ne necessite pas de resistor pack!

Il y a beaucoup de documentation au sujet des regin +T sur tb
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=204461

le gros probleme survient lorsque l'auto tappe les 5000rpm le syteme devient trop "lean" et il y a du knock. Il y a mention de rajouter une injection a l'eau/methane afin de le prevenir.
l'autre option et de faire marcher le 5eme injecteur a WOT....

Regina has a WOT switch on the TPS. i wired that switch to a relay activating the cold-start injector at WOT. that really helps with the leaning out. i don't know if your motor has a cold start injector or not but mine did and that's what i used it for.

Je ne connais pas les regina a fonds, mais il me semble que beaucoup de pieces sont chrysler compatible, et je crois que le systeme peu egalement etre fausse a donne un melange plus riche!


glwb!

[NativeJesus]

Injection d'eau/méthanol c'est un peu overkill pour un kit cheap. Ça va finir en standalone dans une autre année, et si je n'ai pas réussi à gober la 242, ça va finir en +16V +GT42 3.0L stroker-overbore.

J'attend des nouvelles pour un kit d'injecteurs 850, ça devrait bien se faire.

Pour le lean-out, j'ai vu le truc de 500dollars744ti mais il n'a pas trop expliqué comment il s'y était pris pour aller chercher spécifiquement le signal WOT sur la throttle switch. Je ne sais pas non plus avec certitude si j'ai un cold start. Probablement.

[joe90]

si je me trompe pas le TPS sur LH 2.4 a 2 fonctions ...quand il est fermer et quand il est a WOT...alors pas de graduation entre les deux

[NativeJesus]

Sur Regina ce serait similaire ?

[joe90]

y à beaucoup de chance ce qui expliquerait que 744ti a juste pris le signal WOT comme trigger de l`ìnjecteur supplémentaire

[NativeJesus]

Les questions à régler sont donc combien de voltage sort de là, donc quelle sorte de relay utiliser, et quel fil splicer pour obtenir ce voltage là.

Et comment le faire sans fuckailler avec les capacités de démarrage à froid.

[Invité]

TERMINAL 11 TRICK FOR 240 TURBOS
by Tim Turpin

This is a modification to 240 Turbos that can allow you to run higher boost while lessening the risk of fuel starvation. It is a very simple modification that anyone can do in less than an hour. As always- do this modification at your own risk! I claim no absolute knowledge and make sure you have taken the precautions necessary to ensure your car's safe operation. I would strongly suggest that you use both a graduated boost gauge and an air/fuel gauge to monitor your system.


Some Technical Background and Theory
All 240 turbos have a boost enrichment switch on the firewall. This switch activates at 2.9 PSI by grounding terminal 7 on the ECU. Terminal 7 causes the duty cycle to go up to 64-70 degrees of dwell (71-77% duty cycle meter).

1984-1985 turbo models also have a cold enrichment switch. This switch grounds terminal 11 on the ECU when the coolant temp is under 131 degrees F. It is activated by vacuum not pressure. It gives enrichment for a maximum of 1.5 seconds when the accelerator is pressed. The vacuum hose that goes to this switch is cut off by a vacuum valve when the coolant temp gets higher. Thus the factory terminal 11 enrichment is triggered only during cold starts. If you have an older Volvo without the cold enrichment switch don't worry, your ECU is the same as later models (terminal 11 is unoccupied) and you can still do this trick. This modification will ground terminal 11 at a preset boost level you choose (warm AND cold) allowing enrichment when you need it the most.

Terminal 11, when grounded, puts the duty cycle up to 82 degrees of dwell or 91% duty cycle meter reading- quite an improvement over the normal boost enrichment (71-77% duty cycle meter). This extra fuel can help prevent detonation when running higher boost levels (12 PSI-?).

Detonation can be the result of many factors. Heat, octane rating, improper timing, and fuel starvation can all play a part in detonation. This modification only addresses one element- fuel level. And, as such these other issues should be confronted as well to help avoid engine meltdown. To learn more about detonation and how to avoid it check out the 240 mods section on the Turbobricks website.

This is a primitive method that meets my main requirement for a mod- cheap. There are better, more sophisticated ways of providing fuel (additional injectors, EFI) but, this is the cheapest. I figured it was worth a try. Another good element of this modification is that it works within the OEM system by retaining airflow measurement as a means of metering fuel.

For This Modfication You Will Need:

* An overboost pressure switch from a Saab turbo (or another Hobbs style adjustable pressure switch)
* A vacuum cap for one nipple on the switch (1/8")
* A terminal and length of wire from a junkyard ECU (unless you already have the cold enrichment switch)
* A small vacuum Tee (1/8")
* Short length of 1/8" vacuum hose
* A few small hose clamps
* Several lengths of wire and various electrical connectors

The Step-By-Step

1. Set your pressure switch for the level you want to activate the fuel enrichment. You will need a multimeter and air pump to determine how to adjust your switch. Mine is set for 12 PSI. By using a multimeter or A/F gauge you can home in on a good starting point. Once wired up you can then tune the switch to activate after the point of stumbling, but before leaning out. More on tuning your fuel system and finding an enrichment point follows this section.
2. Find a good place to tap into the vacuum lines for the boost signal. Use the vacuum Tee to tap into the line. I put mine right next to the overboost switch (under the dash, driver's side). If you happen to have an '84-85 model with the cold enrichment switch it would be even easier to tap into the vacuum line there because as a bonus the wiring to terminal 11 goes right through this switch as well (should be the white wire).
3. Wire one spade on the Saab switch to a good ground. Wire the other to terminal 11 on the ECU (passenger side footwell). To find terminal 11 all you need to do is unscrew the ECU plug, the terminals are numbered. If yours is occupied you can splice into it either at the ECU or the cold enrichment switch (again, the white wire). If you have an earlier model slide your junkyard terminal plug into the unoccupied space. Make sure your OEM overboost switch has been adjusted to allow for elevated boost levels. If you don't know how to raise your boost safely do not pass go, go to the Turbobricks site and ask the mailinglist.
4. When your switch activates it will allow the ground to go through to terminal 11 and thus initiating the fuel enrichment. That's it, pretty simple huh? I would recommend you thoroughly read the Turbobricks modifications page to get a good base understanding of where this modification fits in the scheme of things.


What Can This Mod Do For Me?
At this point you may be wondering what to expect from this mod. I have a few observations of my own as well as impressions from others. First, grounding terminal 11 should allow you to run about 3 or 4 more pounds of boost after the point you would normally start to lean out. In terms of horsepower this would mean a gain of about 24-32 ponies. This, however, might be a generous assumption considering heat will limit power and the stock turbo will be less effecient at these levels.

How much more boost will this mod allow YOU to run? Well, every car is different. The state of your fuel system will probably be the largest determinant (although other systems will play a part as well). How old is your fuel pump or distributor, when did you last change your fuel filter or O2 sensor, clean your injectors? How new is your control pressure regulator and what fuel pressures are you running. These will all effect how your car runs now and how much you can benefit from the addition of more fuel. Currently a stock clutch limits me to running only 13 PSI so my benefits from this mod are yet to be fully realized. Others have found it allows them to run as much as 15 PSI with no ill effects.

In addition, grounding terminal 11 does not seem to affect drivability negatively. The addition of fuel can be as smooth as the stock enrichment switch if the activaton point is adjusted properly (more below).


Fuel Tuning Tips
First find your car's wide open throttle (WOT) fuel enrichment. Use a voltmeter spliced into the O2 sensor wire (in the engine bay, not the thicker cable at the ECU). A good place for the ground location is the engine block (I choose the valve cover where the ground strap is located). Place the voltmeter´s selector in the 0-1000 mV. scale.

Test: 4th gear, 2500 RPM, full throttle, maximum stock boost. It should read between 850-925 mV. (each car varies) If not, go back and check your fuel system. The goal is to maintain this level as you increase your boost. In a modified engine with over 12 psi, shoot for 920-935 mV.

Here is a helpful chart provided by Angel Morales:

850 mV.: almost lean but acceptable at moderate boost levels, best power.

920-935 mV.: the "good and rich" mixture. Safest mixture, cooler combustion, less detonation-prone.

945-950 mV.: too rich, visible black smoke, engine hesitation.


Adjusting Your Enrichment Point
After finding your WOT reading slowly start increasing boost. When the voltmeter begins leaning out (probably around 12-14 PSI) you need more fuel. Adjust the new pressure switch to ground terminal 11 at this point. How much more boost this enrichment will allow depends on the particular car, Again, keep your eyes on your voltmeter to see when the system starts leaning out.

Once you have reached this point an air/fuel ratio meter (Intellitronix, Cyberdyne, etc.) should be adequate for monitoring the system. Just remember what the gauge reads when the car is running nominally. Most members have found that an LED based A/F meter reads 9 or 10 LEDs at WOT under normal conditions. It is important to note however, that these meters should just be used as a guide as they are not accurate enough to rely on for specific measurements.

Also remember to monitor other detonation variables when running this higher boost. Prime among these variables is timing reduction. The stock retard device in the distributor only removes 6 degrees at higher boost levels. Ideally to prevent ignition related pinging you should either dial back timing a few more degrees (down to 10) or run an aftermarket ignition system that allows for adjustment of retard in relation to boost. Another listmember is reportedly working on a modification that will allow the retard device to take out more timing under boost. I will try to link to that info when posted.

Technical Assistance:
Writing this article was made easier with the help of my fellow Turbobricksters- Philip Bradley, Dave Barton, Angel Morales, Trent James, Milo Whitson, and Jake Sternberg.

Faudrais voir si ca marche sur les regina parcontre!!!!

Sinon fait un trip switch toi meme, mais j'avoue que garder un systeme qui est "automatique" est beaucoup plus plaisant...

Sinon, serait-ce possible que de mettre une trip switch directement sous la pedale (comme la lumiere de freins sur les hondas) qui envoie un signal directement au 5'eme injecteur?

[NativeJesus]

Mmmh pas sûr que ça soit le même terminal mais ça peut être un bon indice...

[NativeJesus]

OK je suis rendu dans les catalogues d'injecteurs Bosch.

Rien à faire, pas capable de rester tranquille.

[Roger-Dee]

Check sur fiveomotorsport pour tes injecteurs, j'ai pris mes 550 et mes 1000cc d'eux. Ils étaient de loin les moin cher.

[NativeJesus]

Je suis en train de me demander ce que je devrais viser comme performance d'injecteurs... 360cc devrait être plenty enough pour un 200 whp non ?

[joe90]

dans ce cas les stock ferait l'affaire!

[NativeJesus]

Les cossins jaûnasse de Regina N/A ?!

[joe90]

non les stock turbo vert