850 Spécifications moteur

Voici un peu d'info que j'ai rassemblé suite à des questionnements qui reviennent souvent sur les moteur des séries 850

CA FERAIT UN BON STICKY JS si tu pouvais heberger les images ca eviterait que ce thread soit a la merci de photobucket!

Si vous voulez ajouter d'autres infos ne vous gênez pas, mais il serait intéressant de prendre garde au infos erronées provenant du web... J'ai pris la plupart de ces infos sur Vadis

B5234T (T5)-----------------------------------------------

Cyl. capacity: 2,319 cc (compared to B5254 2,435 cc)
Cyl. diameter : 81 mm (2 mm less than B5254)
Cylinder stroke : 90 mm (same as the B5254)
Compression ratio : 8.5 :1 (compared to B5254 10.5:1)
Intake valve diameter: 31 mm (same as the B5254)
exhaust: 27 mm (same as the B5254)
Basic timing : 6 ± 2.
Idling speed : 850 rpm
Maximum engine speed : 6200 rpm (momentarily 6500 rpm for 2.5 seconds)
Maximum boost pressure : 9,4 ± 1psig at 5100 rpm

PERFORMANCE (850SEDAN)----------------------------
The B5234T has a maximum output of 166 kW (225 bhp) and maximum torque of 300 Nm and is therefore the highest performance engine ever produced by Volvo. The electronic boost pressure system builds the boost pressure quickly and maximum torque is available between approximately 2000 rpm and 5280 rpm. The engine response is fast, the torque is approximately 240 Nm at only 1500 rpm.
There are power reserves available over a wide range of speeds and performance is retained at high altitude.
The straight torque curve means that there is less need for downshifting when accelerating and makes overtaking fast and safe.
Maximum power: 166 kW (225 hp/222 bhp) at 5280 rpm.
Maximum torque: 300 Nm (221 ft.lb) between approximately 2000 and approximately 5280 rpm.
Acceleration 0 to 100 kph: 7.4 and 7.7 seconds (for manual and automatic gearboxes respectively)
Maximum speed: approximately 240 kph and 230 kph (for manual and automatic respectively. Automatic speed restriction via engine management system at 250 kph.

ENGINE BLOCK-------------------------------------------



1.Cylinder sleeves
2.Piston
3.Gudgeon pin
4.Sodium cooled exhaust valve
5.Camshafts
6.Intake port
7.Piston cooling nozzle
8.Piston cooling cover
The engine block has been modified in the following areas compared to the B5254S :
-Cylinder diameter is reduced (from 83 to 81 mm) to increase the cylinder sleeve thickness (1).
-The reinforced pistons (2) have a smaller diameter and a more concave crown to reduce the compression ratio. The bottom of the pistons have a cut out for the piston cooling nozzles.
-The gudgeon pins (3) are reinforced, with for example a smaller center hole.
-Exhaust valves (4) are sodium cooled, because if the high temperatures.
-Camshafts (5) have lower lift. This gives better idling quality and comfort without reducing the power.
-Intake ports (6) are also modified because of the absence of the variable intake manifold.
-Outlets in the cylinder block for the piston cooling nozzles (7) and relief valves. These have three covers (8) on the outside of the block.
The special spark plugs can tolerate very high temperature and pressure and retain the old service interval.
The crankshaft and thrust bearing have been modified to meet the higher loads on the crank mechanism in the turbo engine which also affect other 5 and 6 cylinder engines:
-The grooves in the lower bearing are eliminated, raising the oil pressure and providing a better oil film.
-The material quality in the big end bearing has been improved, the lead-bronze alloy has been replaced by a more heat resistant aluminum alloy.

TURBO--------------------------------------

Model: Mitsubishi TD04-15G

INFO







1.Exhaust manifold (P/N 1270537) idem sur B5254T
2.Turbocharger (TC)
3.Pressure regulator
4.Link
5.By-pass valve
6.Oil intake
7.Coolant inlet
8.Coolant return.
9.Flexible joint (bellows)
The illustration displays the exhaust manifold and turbocharger (TC) which are each normally covered by a heat deflector plate made of special double layer aluminum plate.
The exhaust manifold (1) is made of heat resistant cast iron and is small to save space. It is divided into three separate ducts from the exhaust vent to the turbocharger (TC). This is so that the exhaust pulses do not interfere with each other but are instead used to accelerate the turbocharger (TC) turbine as fast as possible. The manifold exhaust ducts for cylinders 4 and 1 and for cylinders 2 and 3 are connected while cylinder 5 has its own exhaust ducts. The configuration is based on the cylinder firing order (1-2-4-5-3).
The turbocharger (TC) (2) is equipped with:
-A pressure regulator (3) which controls the waste gate valve via a link (4). The pressure in the regulator is controlled by an electronically controlled turbo valve. If the turbo valve fails the pressure regulator ensures that boost pressure is limited to approximately 135 kPa (absolute pressure).
-The by-pass valve (5) which damps pressure surges in the intake manifold when the throttle is closed suddenly by routing some air from the pressure side to the suction side.
-Oil inlet (6) and return connector (concealed by turbocharger (TC).
-Coolant inlet (7) and return connector (8).
The exhaust system has a new type of flexible joint (9) which consists of a number of layers of corrugated metal surrounded by a metal based braid. The joint loses very little heat which leads to the three-way catalytic converter (TWC) being " triggered " quickly.

LUBRICATION SYSTEM-------------------------------------

The high power output has placed greater demands on the engine lubricating system and cooling. The following have been changed in comparison to the other 5-cylinder engines:
-The oil pump (1) capacity has been increased by a wider pump wheel and a modified profile.
-The relief valve (2) has a more rigid spring and opens at 6 bars of pressure (B5254's opens at 5 bar).
-An oil thermostat (3) regulates the flow of oil to the oil cooler. The oil thermostat begins to open at approximately 95°C and is fully open at an oil temperature of approximately 150°C.
-The piston cooling nozzle (4) brings oil to the underside of the pistons. The oil is supplied to the nozzles from the main bearing oil supply ducts and flows through spring loaded valves (5) which open at 2 bars of oil pressure to preserve good oil pressure at low engine speed (RPM) when piston cooling is not necessary. A common ball valve is used for cylinders 2-3, and 4-5 while cylinder 1 has its own valve.
-Compressor shaft (6) lubrication oil is supplied via a drilled oilway (7) from the main oilway in the block. The return pipe is connected to the sump.

OIL CAPACITY------------
Replacing oil and filter : 5.3 liters
Dry engine, after reconditioning: 6.2 liters (applies if the oil cooler is drained which contains approximately 0.9 liters).

Quelques infos additionnelles sur le B5234T

Le bloc a des sleeves d'acier qui ne sont pas remplacables

épaisser du lining:

-3mm B5234T
-2mm B5254T

CRANKSHAFT

B 5254, B 5252 and B5234T are equipped with forged crankshafts which give maximum strength and also contribute to a low noise level.

B5254T etB5254T p/n 9189283
Donc le meme crankshaft sur un LPT et HPT

COMPRESSION NORMALE----------

Normal values B5204/5252/5254=1.3-1.5 MPa
Normal value B5234T=1.1-1.3 MPa

Note! Engine at operating temperature, wide open throttle (WOT) and starter motor turning at 4.2 -5.0 r/s (250 - 300 rpm).

TETE MOTEUR------------------

p/n 8111178 idem pour le B5254T et le B5234T donc meme tete sur un T5 et un LPT

B5254T------------------------------

Vadis est pauvre en info sur ce moteur mais tout ce qui est important est deja donné plus haut dans les specs du B5234T

Le modèle du turbo est TD04-13G

caractéristiques communes avec le T5:
-meme bloc
-meme tete
-meme manifold d exhaust

donc théorique il ets possible de faire un T5 2.4L avec un moteur LPT

un article interessant trouvé sur un autre forum

Since this comes up from time to time, and there isn't an abundance of people with the inclination here to know about the FWD cars, I figured I'd try to sum things up, since they're a totally different beast than what most folks on here deal with, and tbricks isn't an advertised RWD-only community... Here's a basic outline, and I know there are a couple people on here who will have things to add (Marvelous), especially on the newer cars.

I'll break it down as follows:

[b]I. Engine
A. Limitations of the stock turbo
B. Upgrading the turbo and a new set of limitations

II. Transmission
A. Limitations of the stock auto transmission, and options for improving it
B. The better M56H manual, and possibilities it opens up

III. Miscellaneous Considerations



I. Engine

Overview: The engines in these cars (850 turbos, T5's, T5-R's, and R's, as well as all 70-series T5's [may mention early V70R's], all of which will be referred to as the HPT turbo cars as they are mechanically very similar) are 2.3 liter 20 valve DOHC designs, with a stock turbocharger and settings as follows:

All HPT 850's received TD04 15G turbos, with stock boost for turbo and T5 models set at 9.6 psi, and T5-R and R models at 10.5 psi (stock hp are 222 and 240, respectively).

All HPT 70-series cars received 16T turbos (with the exception of the V70R's, which received 18T's in 98 and 99, and 19T's in 2000). Not sure on stock boost setting, I'd assume it's around 10 for the T5's and probably 12.5 or so for the R's.

Stock airbox design is excellent, pulling cold air from behind the grille, and can be easily modified to be even better. Stock exhaust has nice bends, but relatively small (~2.25") piping and very restrictive cat and muffler.

That's the starting point info. The overview of the engines.

With these cars, there are basically two relatively easily attained levels of tuning. The first is that in which the stock 15G turbo is the major limiting factor in increasing performance, with a ceiling around ~280-300bhp. The other level is one in which the turbo is upgraded, and performance is limited mainly by the transmission and later, the connecting rods.


A. The HPT cars with their stock 15G turbo reach their limitations fairly quickly. A reprogrammed ECU, coupled with good 2.5"-3" full exhaust, will generally get you to the limits of the 15G's efficiency. The ECU will increase fuel and boost maps to about 15-16 psi maximum boost. For a little more performance, you can add a boost controller (don't think you can on the ME7 1999+ cars) to decrease spool-up time and increase the boost an extra pound or two (beyond that isn't too useful).

Essentially though, at this point, if your car was in good tune to begin with, you will be in the area of as high as you'll get with this car, barring band-aid add-ons like nitrous and water/alcohol injection. You should be running mid-low 14s with anywhere from 270-300 horsepower at the crank. Extracting more power with the stock turbo is becoming difficult, because at higher RPMs, the turbine side limits exhaust flow. (though if you insist, you can gain some power by water/alcohol injection and/or nitrous oxide)


B. If you choose to upgrade the turbo (upgraded compressor wheel for the 15G, or using 16T, 18T, or 19T turbos are easiest), then you will potentially be able to yield significant gains in power beyond 17-18 psi. The 15G isn't too efficient even at 16 psi, so even at the same boost levels, you will feel a gain because the air won't be so superheated. However, you won't be able to increase the boost as high on this turbo as with the 15G, because it's actually flowing enough air at those higher boost levels that you'll be needing more fuel in order to make more power (*Bill at Adrenaline Racing recommends upgrading ECU map at any level above 16 psi when using a 19T).
This is the seperating factor for this level, because fuel mods apart from the pre-made performance chips are a consideration. Larger injectors and a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator are options, as well as the possibility of a custom ECU program. Best case scenario would be a custom ECU program used in conjuction with larger injectors.

Internals
The engine's internals are reportedly good to around 400 horsepower with proper air/fuel tuning. However, many premature failures of connecting rods have happened due to high boost levels at low RPMs. With boost coming on gradually however, 320-340 wheel horsepower or possibly slightly more should be attainable if done carefully.

Intercooler
The stock intercooler setup is very good, utilizing all black-painted aluminum piping, and a relatively good bottom-to-top intercooler. In my experience, the abundant rubber elbows used in this system have proven very weak under high levels of boost, and are costly to replace.... I would recommend getting a kit of replacement elbows in silicon. Drop-in upgraded intercoolers are available, though I don't know at what point they become a serious consideration. (there are also "reverse-flow intercooler setups available that reduce the distance of the intercooler pipes to improve throttle response, but it's my belief that the benefit of added cooling of the longer plumbing helps cooling enough to make the reverse intercooler piping (~$250) not quite worthwhile.)

Stock ignition and fuel systems are very good as well, basic plug, wire, coil upgrades will probably yield some small gains, especially at higher output, and the fuel system is easy to upgrade.


II. Transmission

A. The stock automatic transmission doesn't seem to like seeing power above 300bhp. However, some people have been running higher amounts just by doing simple things. There are two very easy and very significant things to do that will help the life of your transmission great amounts. One is flushing your fluid (also upgrading to better fluid helps), and the other is the installation of a transmission fluid cooler. With these two simple things, these transmissions (in good shape) have held well over 300 horsepower, though they are still far inferior to their manual counterparts.

B. There are to my knowledge two manual gearboxes for the FWD cars, the M56 and the M59. The M56 has an open differential, but is supposedly stronger than the M59. The M59 however, was used in Europe in the R's, and came with a high power-handling clutch and a limited slip differential. Bill at Adrenaline Racing can link you up with a kit to convert the stock automatic box to an M56H (strongest manual box), and an R-spec clutch, a combination that should hold over 400 horsepower.


III.

There are other things to consider when tuning these cars. One is that they can run fairly well with very worn components, and in some cases do well even with fairly damaged components. For this reason, many of these cars out there today are in very poor shape mechanically, though it is not readily apparent (most people don't notice something is wrong with them, and if they do, if it's not affecting the car's performance they will generally overlook it). Often times, people will do certain modifications and not yield the gains they are expecting. This is most often due to these small problems that had been overlooked by previous owners and such.
Stage 0 is unbelievably important in these cars. Before modding, replace the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs wires, spark plugs, fuel filter, all vacuum lines, test compression, look for oil leaks, and generally make sure the car is up to spec. Buy gauges. Generic boost and A/F ratio gauges are fairly cheap and very useful in tuning these cars. This is also a good chance to do minor upgrades like better air filter, exhaust, and minor ignition components. Once you're confident your car is running as it should, go ahead with the major modifications, you will save yourself a lot of headaches and troubleshooting (not that there won't be any involved!). Most people don't acknowledge the increased wear/load placed on basic components when you increase engine output by ~50%.

Another important consideration to make before sinking lots of money into one of these cars is that it will never be a drag racer. With fat (for these cars, 225 is considered pretty fat) street tires on 16-17" rims, traction will be a huge problem, even around the 300 horsepower level.
Larger tire sizes would require smaller offsets or spacers, accompanied probably by fender-rolling. The wheel wells in these cars are very snug. Drag radials are but a small help, and slicks are far from reasonable for a daily-driven car.
Overtaking cars on highways, and racing from a roll will be on par with mildly modded f-body V8's, and other extremely fast cars, but you'll find that from a stop, you will be at a severe handicap...

My ideal realistic setup:
That said, with a 19T turbo run around 18-20 psi, blue top or equivalent injectors, custom ECU program, 3" full exhaust, and the two simple helps to the automatic transmission, should yield a car producing 315-325 bhp relatively reliably, and relatively inexpensively (~$2000, excluding what money you may have to spend during stage 0). This car would be amazingly fun to drive, fast in almost any regard, and approaching untouchable by most cars on the highway.

For more detailed information on performing any modifications or procedures here, see www.volvospeed.com , and specifically, the modificatons section. Charles has put together some nice write-ups there.

Some vendors for the chips (I'd recommend custom exhaust, and trying to find injectors independently), and turbos, plus other minor performance parts...

Vendors
- http://www.engstrom.net - talk to Bo, or contact Andrew Zizzo (a zizzo 4 @ AIM), they are a distributor for Swedish company BSR, a top-notch tuner, and can obtain almost anything for you.

- http://www.ipdusa.com - the most reputable Volvo performance parts place in America, they are a distributor for TME, and top-notch, if a little expensive.

- http://www.pes-tuning.com - they make chips for these cars, and are highly regarded by many as the best.

- Adrenaline Racing - Though I don't have a website for them, contact Bill for Upsolute chips ($400 installed, so one of more affordable alternatives), in a number of tunes for different setups, he also can get together the parts necessary to convert to the M56H transmission. (AIM - billadrenaline, or post/pm/e-mail through volvospeed)

- http://www.eurosporttuning.com - If you refer Volvospeed, Frank will be very helpful here, and there is also a small discount. They are the US distributor for the Swedish tuning company SAM Steffanson.

- http://www.atpturbo.com - these guys are working on a kit to convert from the Mitsubishi line of turbos to a Garrett turbo (there are an over-abundance of Garrett T3/T4 hybrids around that are generally better-suited to high-end performance tuning than the mitsu's.), utilizing an external wastegate and custom exhaust manifold. This is a good option for performance beyond what you could get with a 19T and stock manifold.

These should be enough links to get you started, but know that there are at least half a dozen other companies that offer similar products, so if you feel unsatisfied with what one of these offers, don't hesitate to look around (though IMO these are the best).

Je sais pour vous mais souvent recour aux info de se topic sa serais pas pire si vous pourriez le mettre plus facilement a trouver =) genre au debut des topic tk je suis p-e le seul a sen servir!!

merci

tres interessant en passant moi jai tout lue!!!

Mon vaillant B5252S est abandonné, une fois de plus.. :cry:

:lol: :lol:

moi j'ai

2.5L,W/TURBO,B5254T3,"R"MODEL,VIN"52",AWD

a vendre

L'épaisseur du lining , plus petite pour les LPT peut tu les rendre moins résistants ?

[bochar]

bonjour, j`ai besoin d`aide pour un détail, xc 70 cross contry 1999 2.5 t , il faut que je remplace la tete du moteur , j`ai la possibiliter d`installer un tete de 2.4 t 2004 elle semble parreille a quel que diferance pres , y a t`il quelqu`un qui peut me dire si oui ou non il est possible d`installer c`ette tete sur mon moteur , merci. (moteur 5254 visite 5244)

[guypou007]

Compression d'un B5254T 97

J'aimerais avoir la valeur normale de compression de mon moteur B5254T neuf et usagé.

Merci et Bonne année à tous