comment enlever la garniture du pare-brise

[GroanMan]

Salut!

Un peu de rouille près du trim de windshield de ma 240. J'ai réussi à enlever la garniture au dessus de la porte mais celui du pare-brise me semble difficile à enlever et surtout, fragile!

Est-ce que ça s'enlève sécuritairement? Si oui, comment?

[MissB]

J'sais pas si ça peut t'aider ....


1.4 Replacing Windshield with a Newer Type
If you have a '90 or earlier 240, and you need to replace your windshield, ask the glass shop to install a '91-'93 type windshield. It will actually be easier for them. If the shop is hesitant, they are probably not very sure about what they are doing. I called around until I found a shop that was willing to do it - they were actually very happy to learn that this works.
The earlier windshields have the molding held by plastic clips that have to be inserted between the windshield and the body when the windshield is installed. With time these clips break, and the molding becomes loose in places. The newer type windshield just has a flat plastic molding that is better looking, is flusher with the body, and therefore produces less windnoise.
Source: http://vandors.com/240mods.html#Windshield

Replacing Windshield Glass. [Tip from Zee on replacing windshield glass in 240 series cars; 740 are similar. Note the cautions) As for "special tools" to remove the old glass, I use a length of thin piano wire. Simply remove the chrome trim & rubber gasket combination. The glass "floats" on the buytl-rubber sealant. Slice through the plastic clips along the edge of the window. (Some clips you can pry out using a small screwdriver. Most you can't. Just don't twist the tool, or you'll crack or chip the glass) Insert a strong wire or thin screw driver at the top and bottom of the window, near the centerline. Poke through the sealant, making a pathway for inserting the piano wire. Pass the piano wire in, then across the inside of the glass, then out the opposite hole. Now you have the wire inside the glass, through the sealant, with two ends sticking out, top and bottom, center.
Use vise grips (and gloved hands) on each of the wire ends. pull the wire toward you -- from the center of the glass toward the side -- while working the wire back and forth, like you're doing an upper body workout on a ski machine. Repeat on the other half. This method is cheap, reliable and effectively separates the glass from the sticky sealant.
Now, to take out the window, push evenly with gloved hands from inside the car. Begin near the top of the window, and it will naturally stand up for you. Have an assistant waiting to hold it steady until you come out to help lift it clear of the vehicle.
As for installing the new glass, I have read where others used acetone to remove the old, now offending, sealant. I found with "pinching" off as much as I could using paper towels, followed with gently "smooshing" using a putty knife, I was able to rub off the rest with a rag or paper towel, and paint thinner.
I also removed the thin plastic interior trim piece at the top of the window opening. This piece covers the front of the headliner. It is help in place with 5-6 spring slips which are facing forward. You will get the headliner soiled from your sealant removal, so mask it off.
In fact, to avoid getting the sealant goo and particles from falling into the car, I found it useful to mask off the entire window opening from inside using newsprint or craft paper taped to the interior.
Inspect and correct any rust using a rust stopping paint, like POR-15. Many glass shope nowadays recommend using urethane glue to fasten the new window. It comes in tubes, like caulk, and costs about $12 per tube. The 3M brand buytl-rubber "rope" sealant is also available at most car parts stores for about $10.
I am at the point of installation with salvaged glass for my '84 GL project. From what I see, the pinchweld area on the 240 series is nearly 3/4" wide all around the window opening. It's also about 1/2" deep along the outer radius. Now, I am debating whether to use the 3M buytl-rubber, because it looks easier to lay down. But the urethane might fill in the width and height of that pinchweld recess. Even
using a caulking gun, this looks precarious, to me. I may stick with the 3M tape.
There are considerations of "height" of the sealant which looks easier to accomplish with a pre-made "rope", than an unsteady hand with a caulking gun! By my guess, I'd say you would need two tubes of the glue, one of the "ropes".
One suggestion I received privately from a glass shop pro who saw my installation question here on the RWD forum (check the archives, too!), was that you would be better off to install the clips and install the chrome trim to the glass and install everything as a unit. He said to dry-fit the assembly first, marking the outline of the trim onto the body to aid in centering things for real. It will take a couple of shims along the bottom during the dry-fit. You can use masking tape around the chrome trim such that by carefully slicing it along the outer edge, the excess will remain on the body of the car, giving a perfect outline for centering the assembly.
Another idea someone had was to get a couple of those rubber suction cups and an assistant to help position the glass. Evidently you only get one chance to do it right.
The only question I still have is exactly where in the width of the pinchweld do I lay the sealant (either kind) so that it keeps water out of there. On one hand, it seems good to place it along the inside radius of the weld to assure no water penetration behind the glass to the interior. This looks like it would leave a considerable gap between this caulk and the outer radius. (I don't know how much the window flattens out the sealant when it is pressed onto it.)
On the other hand, it also seems good to place it along the outer radius, where the weld curves up 90 degrees to meet the body surface. (Looking at this, you'll see what I mean). This troubles me because I am less confident the sealant will adequately fill toward the inside and seal the glass against water penetration.
It was not much help to look at the old window for help. Someone had put two more sealants around the edge, while leaving the original Buytl-rubber in place.
Before I actually do mine, I plan on stopping off at my local glass shop and asking some questions.

Source: http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Body-Glass1.html